Paint Protection

A protective barrier applied to protect the surface from harmful elements that can and will cause damage to paintwork by means of staining, marking and/or breaking down the paint molecules and structure. The protective barrier works best and will yield best qualities when applied to a new car with no imperfection. It will provide the same protective qualities on both new and used cars but, used car conditions will determine the outcome of the finish and top up. Some older paints are porous and the amount and depth of scratches and damage to the paintwork will have to be determined by the applicator. Whatever the condition, as long as there is good paint, it can be protected and the GLARE will always enhance the colour and richness.

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Harmful Elements

Acid rain, detergents, spray paints, industrial fallout, atmospheric pollutants, sea spray, chemicals from sprinkler systems used for pesticides, bird droppings, eggs & last but not least UV rays. These are the most likely every day elements that attack your car's paintwork, not to mention the physical damage caused to cars everyday by doing the most routine of tasks such as cleaning or driving in dusty weather conditions.

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Physical Damage

Having your car paint protected still means that the car has to be maintained and cleaned adequately and as often as is necessary. A trip back after a dirty, dusty ride certainly warrants an immediate wash. Bird droppings or sea/salt spray must not stay on the paintwork for periods in excess of 24 hours. In most cases, as this is not always possible, the paint protection barrier will ensure (if a good quality product was used) that the marks and/or staining remain on the surface as opposed to penetrating the paintwork, and should be easily removable with the appropriate recommended products. There should be no qualms or dispute with this regard.

Water left to dry off on car paintwork is also harmful as acid rain leaves rings if not washed and dried (water-spotting). Here again, this should only be surface and can be easily rectified. Use of the approved, recommended wash/shampoo helps rejuvenate and protect the paint protection so to speak. Using detergents to wash a car is certainly harmful. You can rest assured the GLARE sealant will not wash off with detergents, but certainly does not do any good either hence the recommendation to use the approved washes. Most protectants on the market today will wash off with detergents. Most will not withstand diluted kerosene mixture, which by the way is one recommended way to remove bird droppings!

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Spider Webs

A term used by most in the paint and panel industry that describes the thousands of fine scratches in paintwork that resembles a spider's web when the sun shines on it and is more noticeable on darker cars.

This is caused by fine abrasive scratches caused by use of improper washing and incorrect washing equipment. Part of this is caused by simply driving as dust particles in the air cut across the car's paintwork when driving, causing friction and abrasion. Simple things like brushing against your car or running your hand across a panel on the car will have the same results. Running a dry cloth or a dry shine will in actual fact do more damage than good for a car's paintwork. Here again, with a good protective coating, the damage is minimized by simply using the recommended fix solution.

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Swirl Marks

Primarily caused by inferior product or products with a very low resistance to detergents, abrasion and simple actions like washing your car. Every time you wash your car, there is a reaction. Using a detergent or cleaning agent compounds this, causing friction and wear, and breaks down the top layer of protection or detailing product used.

This will certainly not be the case with GLARE as it is air dried and cured. After 24 hours, it becomes semi-permanent and can be removed by using the GLARE MICRO FINISH. Swirl marks can also be caused by application. Use of incorrect buff pads and/or products may cause it by drying too quickly. A product that allows you a working period to apply, settle and then cure is best, as is the case with GLARE.

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Cut back

A term also commonly familiar to detailers and smash repairers. A process used to remove oxidized (faded) paint surface scratches, industrial fallout or just give the paint a good scrub. This in essence, depending on the applicator's expertise and choice of product and equipment will determine the results of the objective of the task. This simply means that if one decided to remove a fine (top) layer of paintwork, it must remove all imperfections or one has defeated the purpose of the task. Removing fallout and oxidation need no longer require removing a layer of paint. With GLARE LIQUID CLAY. It is hand applied and simply requires use of GLARE MICRO followed by a coat of GLARE sealant.

The GLARE range does not cut into paint, but forms a layer and bonds into and onto the paint. It will be adding a coating that both strengthens and magnifies the color and look of the painted surface, thus enhancing the true color which is very noticeable. After treatment car paintwork can be compared to the glass sections for reflection and clarity.

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Correct Tools

Correct choice of tools, equipment and application cannot be stressed enough. Simply using the incorrect buff pad can cause damage to the paint. The person applying the product is just as important, and as we all know, with technology and advancement, even the best of products can fail if not applied correctly. Whilst it can be agreed that yes the final seal coat (protection coat) can be applied by hand, the pre-cleaning steps as far back as when the car leaves the production line will determine how good the outcome will be. The preparation is of more importance than the final wipe on step and, as I have seen this as many times as there is hair on my head, most still choose to ignore the important prep step and want to do just the final wipe on step, hence the reason for such shoddy inferior work.

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After Care

Using approved wash/shampoo together with a soft pile approved sponge/mitt is NOT expensive and a must to ensure the amount of friction is minimized - not elimated, hence minimizing scratches.

Using the approved chamois certainly does the same. Most synthetic chamois's leave fine water streaks and scratch as well. When the car is wet, it is not visible. It is not visible either when the car is washed outdoors. Under fluorescent lights, these are all highlighted. This explains why spray booths have these lights fitted. They highlight imperfections not normally visible under natural light conditions.

Make no mistake, a correctly applied paint protection is a Professional Application and should be undertaken by a trained applicator. This should also be carried out under controlled conditions or it will simply be a general polish.

Why pay the extra cash and settle for less? Use of micro fibre cloth and good grade terry towel /cotton cloth is also expensive, but necessary. The same can be said for the buff pads.

All buff pads have a specific use as do tyres and a battery for a car. A trained applicator would be familiar with this. Why buy bread from a carpenter or better still, why pay a clown a surgeon's rate to perform an operation?

Education I believe, will in time solve a lot of the untrusting attitudes customers have toward paint, fabric and rust protection due to all the fly-by-nighters on the market today.

Once again, I would like to stress that this is the opinion of the writer who has been in the industry for 20 years, and is the shared view of the manufacturer of the GLARE range who has 27 years experience as a chemist.

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